"Washington Island Unique Spot on Door Peninsula" from the March 22, 1962 Door County Advocate
By Sarah Magnusson
Washington Island Unique Spot on Door Peninsula
Distinct Flavor A Product of Its Geography
By SARAH MAGNUSSON
The Town of Washington, which includes the surrounding islands of Plum, Pilot, Detroit, Rock and Washington, was organized June 20, 1850 on Rock Island at the home of H. D. Miner. Amos Sanders was made Town Chairman, H. D. Miner, Town Clerk, and John A. Boon, Justice of the Peace. Since no Treasurer was elected, it seems reasonable to believe that these people had no thought of paying taxes. The Town of Washington was organized just two years after Wisconsin became a state, and before Door county was organized.
The first white settlers on any of these islands were said to have been two young men who settled on Detroit Island in 1834, one of whom was killed by Indians, and the other frightened away.
Rock Island had the first settlement in the northeastern part of the state outside of Green Bay, fishermen who came there in 1835. This settlement grew until there were 50 men and their families, called the Illinois Colony. There was also a community of 50 wigwams of Chippewa Indians living there at the same time, who co-existed peacefully with the whites. Chief Silver Band was their leader.
David E. Corbin, who had been a sergeant in the War of 1812, was the first lighthouse keeper in Wisconsin, being in charge of the Rock Island lighthouse (the first in Wisconsin) from its construction in 1836 until his death in 1852.
There was a school and a church on Rock Island, and a graveyard, in which John A. Boon, the first Justice of the Peace, is buried, along with others.
One of the most famous men who lived on Rock Island in those early years was old David Kennison, who was [fraudulently presented as] the last surviving member of the Boston Tea Party. He had [claimed that he had] been born in 1736; had taken part in several wars; and, with his youngest son, had come to Rock Island at the [supposed] age of 110 to mend twine and clean fish, and live out the remainder of his life in peace. He had been married four times, and had a total of 22 children. He found life on Rock Island very pleasant until his son deserted him. When winter came, the fishermen left for different places, so old Kennison secured free passage to Chicago. He could not exist on the meager pension of eight dollars a month which he received from the government, so he was forced to go to the public museum and exhibit himself as a curiosity. He died Feb. 24, 1852, [with a claimed] age [of] 116.
Recognition and honor came to him posthumously, and a grand funeral was held for him, and a fine monument erected on his grave. Subsequently, the other bodies were moved from that cemetery, when the land was taken into Lincoln Park, but his grave remains there alone, in unique dignity in Chicago's most beautiful park.
The men who lived on Rock Island were mostly fishermen and coopers. The size of the fish and the numbers caught in those early years read like something seen through a magnifying glass, or like fairy tales. A fisherman's life was not easy, but adventurous, which clearly describes all men who left their homes and came to the blue waters of Lake Michigan around these islands to seek their fortunes.
Garden stuff grew well on Rock Island, and there were apples, plums, and berries in abundance in the woods. There was plenty of firewood for the cutting, to keep the people warm in the wintertime. However, in the '50's and early 60's many of the people of the Rock Island community moved over to Washington Island, because of better harbors, a bigger supply of wood, and more opportunities for growth and expansion.
It was after the exodus of many people from Rock to Washington Island that Peder Knudsen took his family to Rock Island. They had landed in New York from Denmark, had travelled to Racine, Wis., where there was a flourishing Danish community. Peder had served in the Army of his adopted country during the war between the states.
Peder's cousin, Fred Larsen, had heard rumors of the wonderful fishing around Rock Island, so he built a sailing vessel with two masts and sails, and sailed away, promising to come back and get Peder and his family, if the rumors proved to be true.
In the meantime Peder learned to make pork barrels, and rumor had it that men were making money "hand over fist." Fish were salted and packed in barrels, and coopers got "big wages"—one dollar for each barrel made.
Peder and his family eventually got to Rock Island, first Peder with his cousin Fred Larsen, then his wife and three little boys on the passenger boat "F. W. Backhus," which landed them at Washington Island in June 1866. Fred Larsen sailed from Rock Island and took the family over to their new home where there was still a lively community to greet them. At this time Martin Knudsen was 12 years of age, the oldest of Peder's three boys. Martin learned to sail, learned the cooper's trade, and many other skills. He was already farther advanced in school than the teaching which was available on Rock Island.
In 1867 Peder moved his family over to Washington Island to the larger community. Martin had accompanied his father and a man named J. M. Harrison (who owned Indian Point) to Pilot Island one day, and had said to himself that he would like to live there. His dream came true in 1889, when he was made head lighthouse keeper on Pilot Island. At this time Plum Island was uninhabited, but there were the ruins of a stone lighthouse which evidently ante-dated the one on Pilot Island.
Pilot Island lighthouse had been established in 1850, with Ira Westbrook as its first keeper.
Martin Knudsen became head keeper on Plum Island in 1896, when the government built a lighthouse and dwelling there.
BICYCLE PARTY — Islanders made an excursion about 1894-95 on their fenderless biycles. From left are Albert Oleson, Alfred Hanson, Louis Hanson, Volney Koyen, Waldemar Hanson, Adophena (Phena) Klingenberg, Al Cornell (rear), Frank Lucke, Abe Jessen, Walter Lucke, Olive Klingenberg, Carl Nelson, Pete Peterson and Jon Hanneson.
The very early history of Washington Island seems uncertain and unclear, but it is believed most likely that the very first white men to visit the island were the Jesuit missionaries, who had established missions on the east shore of Green Bay in 1669. Fathers Louis Andre and Claude Allouez had worked among the Indians from Mackinac Island, Mich., to the Door Peninsula in Wisconsin.
Washington Island boasts a Little Lake on the west side near Green Bay. At the southwestern corner of the lake is an opening of flat land. The former owner, Jens Jacobsen, cleared away a thick growth of cedars and discovered a cross about eight inches deep, which had been cut into the ground. The cross lies directly north and south, with its head a few feet from the beach. The trunk of the cross is 20 ft. long and 20 inches wide. The cross arm is 14 feet long and 20 inches wide. Legend has it that this cross was possibly a memorial of the work of an early missionary, maybe that of Father Andre.
Washington Island had a turbulent past because of the warlike Winnebago Indians, who sought to destroy the peaceful Potawatomi who had fled to Washington Island for refuge. There were apparently many battles here between different Indian tribes, because there is an Indian burying ground on Detroit Island, Indian graves and relics all around Little Lake, and it is said that nowhere else can there be found so many Indian village sites, cemeteries and mounds as on Washington Island. Arrowheads have been found even in very recent years. Legend has it that many Indians perished trying to cross Death Door.
The very early settlers on Washington Island were practically all fishermen, who cared nothing about farming, and wanted only some potatoes to eat with their fish.
The records show that fish were so large that sturgeon were "stacked like cordwood," and the trout weighed up to 65 pounds each and were plentiful, as were the whitefish. The fishermen lived on the island only seasonally, and returned to their homes in Illinois in the fall. They had no interest in taxation, nor would they allow themselves to be taxed for roads, schools or teachers in the county. The first County Board meeting was held on Washington Island but the Town Chairman, Mr. Nolan, was so uncooperative that the next meetings were held on the mainland, and Mr. Nolan refused to attend them. For 30 years the fishermen ruled Washington Island alone.
ONCE-THRIVING DOCK AREA, "gasoline town," on Washington Island. Photos taken in 1950-51 by Arthur Vickers.
There was great extravagance among these fishermen. Adelbert Ranney owned and operated a dock and store on the west side of Washington Barber. He was the storekeeper, fish buyer and banker and imported great quantities of canned goods, fancy toys, laces and costly furnishings to satisfy the rich fishermen's families. It was a "come easy go easy" life, for catches of fish were large even though the fish were all caught on hook and line. These men pitied the poor farmers and woodchoppers who had to wrest a living from the stony soil on the island.
Mr. Ranney lived in the "White House" at Washington Harbor, which was torn down just a few short years ago and had been built in 1851. It was said to be the oldest house in Door county. A little village of log cabins and frame houses comprised the community north and south of the dock, up the hillside and on the road that ran past the (Bethel) church. Since many of these families were Irish, the community was named the "Irish Village." There were Tom and Tim Coffey, the Guinans, Hugh McFadden, the O'Neills and others. The widow Weaver, who kept a boarding house, had come from Ireland. Others who lived nearby were the Cornells, Severs, McDonalds, Westbrooks and Sanfords.
Schoolhouse Beach school was built in the 1860's, and school was irregularly taught by a George Larsen, when he was not busy fishing or cultivating his potato crop.
In 1854 a colony of negroes lived at West Harbor, one of whom was called Preacher Bennett. He was said to be an expert boat builder, and he claimed to have stood at Commodore Perry's side, as his cabin boy, during the battle at Put-In-Bay on Sept. 10, 1813. Bennett conducted meetings which were attended by white people as well as colored. From whence the negroes came or where they went remains an island mystery. Preacher Bennett died on the island in 1854.
Before Bethel church (on the road to Washington Harbor) was built in 1865, people met in homes or school houses for prayer meetings or an occasional preaching. Visiting evangelists came occasionally to both Rock and Washington Islands.
Rev. Peter Kitwood of the Bethel Society visited the island In 1864. He became so intrigued with the island and its people, that he talked them into building a place of worship. The people all joined in, regardless of their faith, and gave of their time and money to build Bethel church on Washington Island. They had substantial help from the Bethel Society, which was an organization formed around waterfronts for the benefit of sailors.
At first Bethel church had no steeple or bell, but a Mrs. Benjamin Franklin donated the bell; a belfry was built and the bell installed. It is still sounded to announce the holding of services at all times.
The first preachers were sent by the Bethel Society, and Rev. Peter Kitwood was the first pastor, with a salary of $800 a year, which was a lot of money in those days. He stayed until 1867. Several preachers followed, each staying two or three years. In 1875 the Society stopped sending preachers. The church then had to get along the best it could, with now and then an evangelist. Henry Miner was often called upon to speak at meetings in the church, and performed marriages even though he had only an exhorter's license.
Every one of the original members of Bethel church has passed on. John Malloch served as head of the Bethel Sunday school for more than 40 years. He also officiated at funerals and weddings and took part in many community programs. It was people like John Malloch and Mrs. Alice Koyen in early years, and later Mae Young, Margaret Lockhart, Bert Cornell and Jake Bilton who worked hard to see that Bethel Sunday school and church kept going.
First rural carrier on Island, John Malloch.
When the island could afford a rural mail carrier, Mr. Malloch was selected and served in this capacity until his retirement in 1928, holding the job for 24 years.
Mr. Malloch was also the Island correspondent for the Door County Advocate for many years. He was said to have been a fluent writer, not only about Island news, but also on subjects of general interest.
Rev. Carl Ohlson filled the pulpit for a few years during the depression, and with no definite salary. He was obliged to seek employment elsewhere because of the meager offerings.
Rev. Clarence H. Lundberg was pastor of Bethel church for the next 21 years, leaving the Island in 1958. Then came Rev. Robert Sandberg for a few months, with illness taking him back to Chicago. Next Rev. Clyde Blackmer and his nurse wife served the church and community for two years. Rev. Blackmer went back to seminary when they left the Island. At present Rev. Ben Pent is the pastor, and the work of Bethel church goes on in the community, where it has acted as a beacon all through the years.
Back in 1888 and 1870 there came groups of Norwegians, Danes and Icelanders who secured homestead rights far inland in the timber. It is said that Rufus Wright owned the first homestead on Washington Island. These Scandinavians all hoped to cut wood and make a good living because of the virgin timber. They put all their hardy strength to work felling the giant maples. They split them and cut them into four-foot lengths with axes, since crew-cut saws had not come into use. The price they received for a cord of wood, delivered at the deck, was only two dollars, which was a paltry sum when the amount of hard labor involved is considered. The cordwood was shipped by boat to Milwaukee for heating buildings.
When these early settlers tried to dig wells they discovered that there was solid rock all over the Island about a foot under the surface. For this reason the people had to carry all the water they used from the lake, in pails, kegs, on wheelbarrows, and in barrels on wagons drawn by oxen. This difficulty caused them to be very saving of the water.
In those early days communication with the outside world was extremely difficult in the late fall and early winter, when navigation had not frozen over. It was not a lack of food which concerned the men at such times, but the whole Island was at one time out of tobacco. This was an intolerable situation for the men, and no substitute was found, although they tried chewing bark, twigs, cabbage, leaves, etc. Finally, Henry Miner agreed to go to Green Bay, and made that long trip with a sled to got supplies and tobacco. It was a whole week before his return, but a very happy group met him. They were jubilant or even ecstatic when the tobacco was passed around, and soon the ice was well stained.
The immigration of the Icelanders to Washington Island may be traced to the effects of William Wickman (father of William and Arthur). He was sent on an official mission from his native country of Denmark to Iceland in 1855. He induced a number of well-educated Icelanders to come to Milwaukee in 1870, then on to Washington Island. They soon became dissatisfied and went to North Dakota, where they settled and remained. About four years later it is said that Mr. Wickman brought another group of Icelanders to Washington Island. He furnished them with fishnets, provisions and capital to make a new start in this country.
In this second group was Arni Gudmundsen, who was engaged in clerical work in Eyrarbakka, Iceland. He came to the Island in 1874, and lived here until his death in 1938. He married an Icelandic girl named Haldora Peterson, and they had nine children, one of whom is Mrs. Carl Richter (Maggie); another was Haldor Gudmundsen (who was brought up by Mr. and Mrs. Martin Knudsen).
ICELANDIC CASTLE Four Icelandic families lived in the home at the same time, others at other times. The four families were Mr. and Mrs. Jon Gislason (parents of Lawrence), Mr. and Mrs. Olafur Hannesson (parents of Gertie Anderson), Mr. and Mrs. Oddur Magnusson (parents of Mack and Herman) and one other we couldn't get. Photo from Aurthur Vickers.
Since there was no doctor on the Island, Arni Gudmundsen wrote to his brother, Dr. Thordur Gudmundsen, and induced him to come to Washington Island. Dr. Gudmundsen had received his degree from the medical school in Reykjavik, Iceland in 1872. Being a bachelor, he lived with his brother on the Island. He was a man of simple wants and croquet was his favorite pastime. He walked when making house calls, or went on skiis or snowshoes in the winter, then finally by horse (Topsy) and a two-wheeled cart, brought to him by a Norwegian captain. He served the Island for 12 years, and never seemed interested in making money, just serving the people. Some farmers gave him oats for his horse in payment of their bills, others were told that a dinner sometime would be enough. When the good doctor died in 1899 the people of Washington Island erected a monument on his grave.
For many years following his death the island was without a resident doctor. They advertised for one, offering to pay him $2,000 a year guarantee and all the usual medical fees in addition. From then to the present time there have been many doctors, and they have all received a stipulated guarantee, plus their fees. The doctor who stayed the longest time in recent years was Dr. E. C. Farmer, who served the Island for about 20 years. The present resident physician is Dr. Paul E. Rutledge, who was a summer resident on the Island for about 20 years before becoming the doctor here. He came here from Kirkwood, Mo.
The hardy Scandinavians were finally able to clear enough land to do productive farming, with the aid of dynamite for blasting out stumps and well-drilling machinery. Then the rock fragments were used for crushing to build good roads, and later the stones in the fields were piled up for stone fences.
Thordarson library interior, Rock Island. —State Historical Society
Washington Island was soon a community of farmers and fishermen, the latter being the richer because of large catches of fish and a good market. It has always been apparent (even to the casual observer) that commercial fishermen were financially better fixed, as they were the first people to have bright lights (gasoline lamps, kerosene mantle lamps), then electric lights, bathrooms, and all the things considered as luxuries. It is only in the past few years that fishing has fallen off and many Islanders have been forced to go elsewhere to find finny creatures.
The Schoolhouse Beach school was the only one for a while. One of the teachers was Lottie Harris (Pfeiffer) whose letter was published in the Door County Advocate two years ago. She was 88 years of age at that time. She said that her mother had been one of the teachers in the school on Rock Island.
Then the original Detroit Harbor school was built. At times there were as many as 90 or more pupils—all eight grades—taught by one teacher. Mrs. Fred Suchy (Annie Sigurdson), Sturgeon Bay, Wis., was one of the teachers of this school. The names on the enrollment in 1887 are mostly familiar to the middle-aged generation on the Island at this time, although there are only a few of them living.
When Detroit Harbor school became a 2-room state graded school, the old building was sold and moved to Jackson Harbor Road and became the main part of the store (now Harbor Grocery).
Washington Island was finally divided into four school districts, Detroit Harbor, Washington Harbor (the present high school building), Jackson Harbor and Lucke school.
Eventually Detroit Harbor and Washington Harbor schools became 2-room state graded and Jackson Harbor and Lucke schools remained rural until all of the grade schools were consolidated into one school district in 1946. Two buses were bought to transport all elementary pupils to school at Detroit Harbor school, and the high school was moved from the basement of the grade school building to the Washington Harbor school. In 1961 two more rooms were added to the east side of the grade school building. At this time the teachers are Gladys Boshka, Sylvia Nelson, Gertrude Johnson and Conrad A. Anderson, principal.
The Lucke school building was sold to Roger Gunnerson for a hardware store.
The Jackson Harbor building was bought by Vi and Bill's Whatsoever Shoppe, and Vi Hansen operates it alone now.
Pupils who wanted higher than eighth grade education at one time went to high schools at Fish Creek or Sturgeon Bay, some even left the island after the high school was organized here. All pupils attending high school on the Island paid a pro-rated tuition, the more pupils, the lower the tuition. In 1931 the tuition was around $100 each. In 1943 the Island high school became a Union Free high school. There have been a number of different teachers since then. But Mrs. Carl Schaub, (Anne) taught the greatest number of years. Washington Island high school is unique in that it is one of the two high schools situated on an island in the United States, the only other one being on Kelly Island (near Sandusky, Ohio) in Lake Erie. Even though it is a small high school with never an enrollment of more than 50 pupils, it has turned out some outstanding students, who have gone away to different colleges and distinguished themselves. The present teachers are L. A. Davison, principal, and Mrs. John Jessen (Clara) assistant. Mr. Davison is also administrator for the whole Island.
Ladies Aid in the "Roaring 20's." C. B. Eaton is now the owner of the truck.
At one time there were four church buildings on the Island. The Baptist church on the Main Road is now the Legion Hall, home of Gislason-Richter Post of American Legion). Among those who preached in the Baptist church as late as the 1930's was Mrs. William Wickman (mother of Wilson Wickman, County Supervising Teacher). There was also the "Little Brown Church" (Methodist), which was sold, torn down, and Clifford Koyen's house occupies the spot now. The newest of all is Trinity Lutheran church on Town Line Road. Back in the 1920's the Lutherans held meetings in the Bethel church for a while until they got their own building finished — about 1931. The Lutheran pastor at that time was John Christianson (whose wife was Carl Haglund's sister Ruth). The Lutheran congregation worked hard to pay for their church, and a very short time after they burned the mortgage, their church burned to the ground on Sunday, Jan. 12, 1947, and they were obliged to start over from scratch. Services were held in the Legion Hall during the construction of the new building. They have again erected a beautiful church, and they have almost finished paying for it. There have been many pastors, each staying from three to five years. The most recent pastor was Myron Haleen. His new successor is Chester Nerenhausen.
The annual Scandinavian Fest and Smorgasbord is the biggest social affair sponsored by the Lutheran church, and this occurs around the end of July or the first of August. At this time the women of the church bring together all the wonderful Scandinavian foods for which they are famous.
Wintertime has always been the social season for Islanders, since they are very busy catering to the needs of summer residents during that season. They also have gardens to tend and canning of fruits and vegetables.
In the old days there were sleigh-ride parties, candy-pulls, singing schools, church "sociables" and dances. Later on there were ice-skating parties, too.
Near the intersection of what are now known as Town Line and Main Roads there stood in the 1890's an oblong log building called the "Powder Horn." It was the community center of its day, and it was there that islanders gathered for many of their good times. There are a few old-timers left who get a gleam in their eye when remembering some of the good times they had at the "Powder Horn." There were also public debates for entertainment, and one of the funniest remembered by some, was "Resolved that the cow is more useful than the horse." There were also spell-downs, which brought out everybody—quite different from those today.
"Washington Avenue." —Clarence Koyen Photo
Just as the "Powder Horn" was the community center of its day, so the Community House fills the same need today. The Community Center today consists of the Community House, the "Red Barn" (where the Island Players present their plays, hostel quarters, beach front, etc. There is a large outside stage on the east side of the "Red Barn," where the annual Scandinavian dances are presented during the Fest.
The Community House is nearly 100 years old. It was once a part of a lumber camp owned by J. C. Corrigan of Milwaukee, Wis., who also ran a general store there. There was a pole road from the lumber camp to the east side, over which was hauled bark for tanning, and cordwood to be shipped from the dock (now owned by William Jepson) on freighters to Milwaukee. Lawrence Gislason's house was then used as a bunkhouse for the men of the lumber camp. John Gislason bought the property and operated the store from 1886 to 1912. When he died, his son, Lawrence, took over and operated the store until 1936. Gislason's store handled everything from Victrolas, pianos, records, sewing machines, to shoes, dresses, groceries and yard goods.
From 1936 to 1946 the building was used for a tavern. It was then purchased for $5,000 by the Washington Island Community Center Association. Ever since then it has played an important part in community life. The grade school Christmas programs are always held there. The Island Fair exhibits are displayed in the hall; the high school boys use the hall to play basketball; and it is used for public gatherings like the annual school meeting, annual R.E.A. meeting, and for a variety of other purposes.
About 30 years ago the population on Washington Island was 1,000 or more. At present the census shows only 620 inhabitants who live here most of the year. Some of them go south for the winter. As the native population dwindles, the summer population grows, and many people have decided that the Island is an ideal place to retire. The exodus from the Island has been an economic necessity for young people because of the lack of industry. However, it is apparent to the reader of the news column from Washington Island, printed in the Advocate, that relatives and friends of Islanders return to the Island at every possible opportunity.
Unidentified photo at Thordarson estate, Rock Island.
The ferries expedite their visits, and as the years go by more ferries and more trips per day have been added until it is possible during the summer months to come and go at any hour during the day. There is even a midnight trip on Friday night to accommodate people who want to enjoy a long weekend to the fullest. The first ferry boat connecting Washington Island with the mainland was the "Wisconsin," owned by Capt. William Jepson, with a capacity of four cars. Since there were only three trips daily, this small boat was soon sold (to Christian Anderson), and the "Welcome" was purchased. The Wisconsin had been used as a passenger ferry during the three summer months and as a freight boat during the spring and fall when navigation was open. The Welcome could carry six or seven cars, depending on the size of the car. Thirty years ago it was impossible to bring all the cars over to the Island on the 4th of July with one ferry. By 1936, when Washington Island held its Centennial Celebration, 100 years since white settlers had settled on the old John Larsen place (now belonging to Russell Skoien—there is a fireplace still standing with the date 1936 cut into). William Jepson had added another ferry in 1932, the North Shore, and advertised in the newspaper "Washington Island Reporter" that he could carry 1,000 persons and 150 cars a day to the Island, and that people should make reservations so that everyone would be sure to get to the Island for the three-day celebration.
Captain Carl G. Richter and son, Arni, purchased the ferry line in 1940. The new boats, Griffin, C. G. Richter, and finally the Voyageur, were built by the Richters, and the old ones sold and taken away from this area. Capt. Carl Richter retired some years ago leaving Capt. Arni Richter to operate the ferries with the aid of his crew. Lucien Boshka has been with Arni the longest period of any of the crew, operating one of the ferries.
History should include the outstanding service of Capt. Arni Richter to the City of Sturgeon Bay, when their bridge was out of commission in the fall of 1960, and people and vehicles were ferried back and forth across the canal by the Voyageur and the Griffin.
Thordarson's $250,000 boathouse, Rock Island.
The men who have served as chairman of the Town of Washington have all been extremely busy men. For instance, Bo L. Anderson (brother of the late Mrs. Nor Shellswick) owned and operated a hotel and general store on the property now owned by Alfred Stelter. He was an amateur poet and actor, and wrote a song, praising the Island, to the tune of "Home, Sweet Home." He was also postmaster of the Detroit Harbor post office in 1895.
William Jess was referred to as the "Mayor" of Washington Island, although not a mayor. At the time that he was Town Chairman he was also Clerk of the School Board, Treasurer and general manager of the telephone company, and secretary of the local insurance company. He held some of these jobs from the time they were created, and for many years. He was appointed postmaster in 1907 and served until 1921. These jobs, plus his private enterprise, made him one of the busiest men on the Island.
Other chairmen have been Chas. O. Hansen, who served eight years, and who was a successful dairy farmer and had a milk delivery route for years, as well as serving on various civic boards. Then came Conrad Anderson, Roger Gunnerson (President of the Telephone Company at present), Dr. E. C. Farmer, and now Jack Hagen is serving his third term of two years.
Being the general practitioner on Washington Island is a full-time job, but Dr. Farmer took on the job of Chairman of the Town as well, which kept him hopping almost day and night, since many of his sick calls came in the middle of the night, and practically all babies were ushered into the world in the wee small hours. Also, Dr. Farmer played the saxophone in the Island orchestra back in the 1930's.
Jack Hagen is a dairy farmer, and President of the Washington Island Cooperative Dairy, Inc., as well as being Town Chairman.
The succession of postmasters on the Island began with Mr. Ranney in his store at Washington Harbor. Later the post office was located in the old home on the H. J. Leasum property with Robert Severs as postmaster. About 1895 another post office was established at Detroit Harbor, with Bo L. Anderson as postmaster.
In 1901 Mr. Severs died, and L. P. Ottosen (Carrie Jorgenson's father) became postmaster in a building which stood where Clifford Young's house now stands. Mr. Ottosen held this job until 1912, when he retired due to ill health, and that post office was discontinued.
In 1907 William Jess was appointed postmaster at Detroit Harbor, and served until 1921, when John Gudmundsen (brother of Haldor Gudmundsen) was appointed and served until 1924, when Mack Magnusson was appointed. Mack served for 34 years, the first two of which the post office was located in the basement of the John Malloch house, and the next 32 years in the present location. Mack retired in 1958 at the age of 70 years. In 1940 the post office came under the Civil Service, and Mack was required to take a Civil Service examination to hold his job. There were two other Islanders, women, who took the examination, but Mack was successful in holding the job.
Mrs. Robert (Theresa) Rainsford, daughter of Christine and Haldor Gudmundsen, was then appointed postmaster, and is still serving in that capacity. Her assistant is Mrs. Clifford (Betty) Young. Carrie Jorgenson serves as substitute when one of them is ill. Carrie also served as substitute for Cecelia and Mack Magnusson.
In 1926 the name of the post office was changed from Detroit Harbor to Washington Island. The post office will in the near future be located in the new post office building under construction on the corner next to the Clover Farm store, and owned by Roger Gunnerson.
The first rural mail route was established in 1902, with. John Malloch as carrier. He served in that capacity until his retirement in 1928. Ernest Boucsein was then the rural carrier for some years until his death. Then followed Elden Hettiger (who moved to Milwaukee, Wis.), and now Harley Hanson.
Mail to Washington Island once crossed frozen Death's Door.
The life of the mail carrier, transporting the mail to and from the mainland in the late 1800's was adventurous, particularly in the wintertime. Back around the turn of the century the mail was carried by sailboat, and Pete Anderson (brother of John O. Anderson and the late Clara Boyce) was the carrier from Washington Island to Ellison Bay, Wis. He had many harrowing experiences when the ice began to break up in the spring. There was one time when he and his horse and sleigh were almost lost, because the ice broke loose and left them stranded on an ice cake, floating around helplessly. The horse was very frightened, and kept falling down every time he tried to stand. Finally, some kind soul was able to throw a rope to Pete, which he made fast and pulled that ice cake over to firm ice where he could walk off.
The mail has been carried with the small mail boat (also named Welcome) from the East Channel between Washington and Detroit Islands; it has been hauled on a sleigh by hand within a mile of Plum Island, then on the Coast Guard boat (when all boats were frozen in tight at the ferry dock).
During the depression some farmers shipped cream to Fairmont, so it had to be hauled along with the mail. (The Richters had the mail-carrying contract only at that time.) One time Arni Richter and Ray Andersen were pulling the sleigh with the mail and two 10-gallon cans of cream, walking out to where they could get close to the Coast Guard boat (about a mile from Plum Island). There was a stiff southwest wind in their faces, and the ice was very rough and frozen up in peaks. Then men had to wear creepers on their shoes in order to walk. I happened to be the only passenger going to the mainland that day, and had been injured in a fall ice skating. The men kindly told me to sit on the sleigh, although they were already straining at pulling the heavy load. They said they could not feel any difference when I got on the sleigh.
The mail was carried by snowmobile a few years later (when the "Door" was frozen over). Everybody drove back and forth across the "Door" then. It was just about this time that the most awful tragedy occurred in the memory of island people, when the Washington Island basketball team went down through thin ice to their death on Mar. 10, 1935. They were returning to the Island on Sunday morning after playing a basketball game at Sister Bay Saturday night. It was foggy; they lost their way, and drove on ice too thin to hold them in the "Door." Their names were: Leroy Einarsen (son of Anne), Roy Stover (brother of the late Marie McCormick), Norman Nelson (son of Olga Nelson, and nephew of all the members of the Ottosen family), Raymond Richter (son of Minnie Richter), Ralph Wade (son-in-law of William Jepson), and "Bub" Cornell (brother of Mary Richter). There has never been another Washington Island basketball team.
At Washington Island. Sleighs with sails attached.
There has been no necessity for the people to drive across the "Door" for the past few years because the ferry goes across almost every day in the year. Arni Richter's crew keep the ferry cut loose all the time. It does happen occasionally in the spring that a strong wind will pile ice cakes so high that the ferry cannot get out, but as soon as the wind shifts, it is all cleared. It is not like in the old days when L. P. Ottosen recalled that there were seven weeks when no word was received from the outside world. This situation could not occur today, because if the boats could not run, and the telephone lines across the "Door" were down (which has happened many times in years gone by), there is a police radio located in the home of Ann and Victor Cornell, which can be used in case of emergency to call Sturgeon Bay.
Up to 1904 there had been no telephones on Washington Island. In that year the government extended telephone service to the lighthouses on Plum, Pilot, Rock, St. Martin's, Poverty, and to Washington Island. Phones were then installed in Bo L. Anderson's, Koyen's store, Washington Harbor Dock, and at the Rasmus Hansen home. In 1910 the Washington Island Telephone Company was organized, and now there is a telephone in almost every Island home.
Josie Jepson, telephone operator.
There have been many different telephone operators over the years, but the first people to operate a telephone office were the Carl Hansens, who lived in the house now owned by John Jessen. When the switchboard was installed in its present location Mae (Ottosen) Sorensen became the Chief Operator. She had been working for the Carl Hansens. Mae had different helpers in the time that she was Chief Operator, and Lena (Einarsen) Pickert was one, and Josie Jepson was another. Mae Sorensen recalls that there were 14 local telephone lines when she was the operator, as compared to 41 lines today. There are five long distance circuits at present, and 307 telephones on the Island, including those of summer residents. The telephone office has been located in its present building for all these years. Mrs. Harry (Reggie) Hansen, Gladys Boshka, Florence and Orville Jess, and others have been the Chief Operators and have had many helpers. Two of my children, Kent and Rosalie, have worked there a couple of years each after school and on Saturdays and Sundays while attending high school. For the past four years Mrs. L. A. Davison has been saying, "Number, please," and Alvin Cornell, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Alvin Cornell, is her helper. Mrs. Davidson knows the voice of every Islander, and can usually locate anybody in a few seconds if they are visiting where there is a phone.
The storekeepers have played an important part in the history of Washington Island also. One of the oldest stores was Koyen's, owned and operated by A. A. Koyen. Later on it was Jesse and Floris Koyen who kept the store. This store was a hang-out for old-timers, who sat around the pot-bellied stove and reminisced about pioneer days. In more modern days after the high school was moved to the Washington Harbor school, the store became a hang-out for high school pupils at noon hour. They could buy candy, gum and pop, and learn early history of the Island from Jesse and Floris. Jesse would also sew up a torn shoe for them while they waited. Koyen's store has ceased to operate since the death of Floris.
Ted Thorarinson was the first owner of the store now known as the Harbor Grocery. The main part of this store building had been the old Detroit Harbor school (the picture of which was taken in 1887), and was moved to the present location when the new school was built. Sigrid and Ted Gudmundsen next owned and operated Ted's store for many years. Ted and Sigrid had the custom of holding open house at Christmas time each year, and for all who attended, there was fresh homemade Christmas bread and coffee. The recipe for this bread was brought to this country from Norway by Mr. Hagen (Sigrid's father), and many Islanders use it every year, as it appears in the Island Cook Book, put out by the women of Trinity Lutheran church.
The store has changed hands several times since then, and is now owned by Ruth (Young) and Fred Boniface.
Mann's store has the longest history in one family. George O. Mann came to the Island as a young school teacher, and taught the Lucke school (now Roger Gunnerson's store), at a salary of $16 a month. After a few years he and his brother opened a general store. After a time he bought out his brother's interest. His first store was two stories high, with furniture kept in the upper story. This store burned down in April 1932, in spite of the gallant efforts of the bucket-brigade. This occurred before the Island owned any fire-fighting equipment. He carried on his business in Harry Hansen's hall across the road temporarily, and rebuilt his store on the same spot, which is the present Mann's store. There had been a garage adjoining the south side of the old store, but it was thought unwise to have it so close again, so it became a separate building. Fred Mann's house was moved from next door to the store to its present location.
George O. Mann acquired several farms, went into the fish brokerage business find other business enterprises. He was president of the telephone company, a member of the board of education, an officer of the Mutual Fire Insurance Company, the R.E.A. cooperative, and other organizations; one of the busiest men on the Island. In July 1953 he celebrated 50 years in his general store, and served coffee and lunch to everyone who attended. Since his death four years ago, the store has been operated by his son, Fred, with the help of Fred's son, Jerome.
Milton Cornell and his son, Kirby, operate the Clover Farm store, which is of more recent vintage. Milton was a clerk and delivery boy in Mann's store from the time he was 14 years old, and boarded next door with the Jim Boyce family. After he grew up and married, he started a store of his own where Gordy's Tap is located on the Main Road. Before long he decided to build a store in its present location across from the post office. He has added more space and changed the face of the building in the past few years.
Roger Gunnerson bought the Lucke school building when the four grade schools were consolidated, and opened a store called "Gunnerson's Hardware." However, he has expanded until you can get practically everything except groceries there.
All cooperative organizations on the Island, such as the Telephone company, the R.E.A., the Fire Insurance Company, and the Washington Island Cooperative Dairy (formerly called Island Creamery and privately owned then, have sprung up of a necessity. As the need for these organizations occurred, the business men met and elected officers and started the ball rolling.
One of the most unique facts about Washington Island is that there is no jail, and there has never been any need for one. In early times the people did not even elect any constables. Later on, when constables were elected, they didn't even bother to qualify for the job, because they felt themselves unnecessary. It is only in these past few years that constables have been necessary, mostly to check on traffic violations, since there are so many cars. Most bad infractions of the law have been traced to outsiders, like the vandalism in the cemetery. When the constables do find it necessary to arrest someone, they just call the sheriff on the police radio and have him meet them across the "Door." It is not easy to get away from the Island, so culprits think twice before attempting anything.
BEGINNING OF THE END for the old hitching rail, right foreground. Tom Nelson is pictured in shirtsleeves and vest. These are the first cars on Washington Island. Antique car buffs say there's a 1916 Buick at left, a 1914 Hupmobile or Overland at right.
One of the strangest incidents that ever happened on Washington Island occurred back in 1937, when Islanders at a town election had voted the Island dry, in spite of the fact that the rest of the country had repealed the Volstead Act. The tavernkeepers were hard up, so they started selling "bitters," and other drinks containing alcohol. It had always been a custom for people on the mainland to warn Islanders of the approach of game wardens, revenue men, etc. It seems that someone reported the tavernkeepers for their illicit business, so four or five state revenue men, disguised as sport fishermen (because it was the bass season in October), travelled to Washington Island unsuspected, and raided all of the taverns simultaneously. Where they made their mistake was drinking up the evidence before the case came to trial, so the tavernkeepers all got off with suspended sentences.
The Washington Island Maternity Home; or Pearl's Baby Center, as it is called, had its beginning in the 1940's, after Pearl Haglund graduated from a nursing school in Evanston, Ill. in 1942.
Prior to this time all babies were delivered either at home, or if there was any fear, an occasional woman would travel to a hospital. There had been a number of mid-wives who went with the different doctors to the homes. Mrs. Clara Boyce, Pearl's mother, could point to dozens of children and say, "That's one of my babies." She not only cared for the baby and mother, but also did all the work for the rest of the family in the home. Mrs. Lizzie Hansen, Chas. O. Hansen's mother, was another woman who helped with nursing.
Pearl was prevailed upon to open her home on the McDonald Road as a maternity home. She has had as many as three babies and mothers in her home at one time. When she needs help, she calls on Esther Wylie, who is also a nurse. Pearl's home is well-equipped with hospital beds, etc. Pearl also cares for other sick people in her home, when there are no babies around.
In off seasons, when no babies are expected, Pearl goes on private nursing cases down in Illinois.
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The Icelandic family with the most members living here is the off-spring of Magnina and Peter Gunnlaugsson (original Icelandic settlers), who are: Steve, Peter, Magnus, Louis, Bjorn, Mrs. Haldon Johnson (Magnina) and Mrs. Maurice Andersen (Dagmar). The first four of the men are 80 to 85 years of age.
Steve, the oldest member of this family, was born Feb. 22, 1877, in a house on top of the hill quite near Bjorn Gunnlaugsson's present home. Right here it is interesting to note that two houses burned at different times almost on the same spot. Steve attended school at the Schoolhouse Beach school.
As a young man he says he "sailed on the Northland, one of the finest passenger boats on the Great Lakes." He then went sailing on different sailing schooners, namely, the "Madonna" whose bones were burned just a few years ago) with Ole Christiansen, and then with Capt. John C. Jessen (grandfather of the late John Jessen).
Steve was engaged in commercial fishing with Fred Richter (brother of Carl G. Richter), then with John W. Cornell (father of William Cornell and Mary Richter).
After his marriage to Bertha Andersen in 1907, he started farming, and has continued to the present time (now just helping his son, Raymond). In the absence of a veterinarian, Steve acted as midwife to hundreds of cows. He says they are just as inconsiderate as humans as to the time of birth, and most cases came in the middle of the night.
Steve's brothers been farmers on Washington Island up to the time of their retirement.
Ben Johnson, who formerly owned the Washington Hotel, came to Washington Island with his parents and his brothers and sister from Iceland in 1887, when he was 12 years of age. He attended school at the Schoolhouse School.
In 1912 he built the Washington Hotel down in Detroit Harbor. He was the owner, operator and cook until 1946, when he sold it to William Jepson, the present owner of the Washington Island Boat Works. The hotel has changed hands several times, but has been known as Wrasse's Washington Hotel for the past 10 years.
Ben did the cooking, and kept his guests entertained with his unlimited store of funny stories. Then in the evenings he often played cards with them, if they needed another player, so versatile he was. He had the first hotel on the Island with indoor plumbing, and there was an occasional summer resident who would pay him 25 cents to let them take a bath. Ben was a cook on steamboats on the Great Lakes for many years. He now resides with his children in California, although Washington Island is very dear to his heart. It is too difficult to travel back and forth spring and fall.
Thomas Johnson, brother of Ben, age 89, cut cordwood for a few years after the family came to Washington Island, then became engaged in commercial fishing for the next 45 years until his retirement. He lives here with his daughter and husband, Lettie and Fred Mann.
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Jens Jacobsen, who started Jacobsen's museum on Washington Island.
One of the most interesting men who helped make Island history was Jens Jacobsen, a Danish immigrant, who came to Washington Island shortly after 1900. He fell in love with the Island because it reminded him so much of his homeland and the stormy Baltic Sea.
Jens farmed and fished, and studied the early history of the Island and the Indians who inhabited it. He bought the land around Little Lake, and in clearing parts of it, dug up rocks, two skeletons of unknown Indians, arrow-heads, mortar and pestle, and many other items. Jens wove a wonderful story around his collection of museum pieces, which attracted many of the same people to return again and again. He included in his narrative the "cross" in the ground, which is a hallowed spot on the property at Little Lake.
In 1931 Jens and his son, Ralph (who now carries the burden of repeating his father's stories) built the museum to house the collection of relics. The museum attracts about 3,000 visitors every summer, some of whom have come from Singapore, India, Australia, Chile and Iceland, as well as many of our states.
The prize pieces in the collection are several fossil rocks, which geologists say date back several millions of years to a time when a tropical sea covered Washington Island. Peace pipes, old stone dishes, Indian beads and other items are on display in glass cases or on open tables. Ralph believes he has many relics here that perhaps are not duplicated in any other state museum.
Also on display in the museum is a large collection of wooden ships with birch bark sails, which were expertly carved by Jens Jacobsen on long winter evenings. He learned carving at a vocational school in Denmark at the age of 9, and since there was no radio or television for diversion (and Jens was not a card-player), he spent his evenings carving. Each ship is named after a famous Great Lakes vessel.
"The Griffin, a many-sailed flagship of Robert LaSalle, the famous French explorer, anchored just off Washington Island in 1679 and traded with the Indians," Ralph said.
Jens Jacobsen was a versatile man, who was as much at home writing poetry as carving ships. One poem, which he wrote concerning the Michigan-Wisconsin boundary dispute (in 1926), was entitled, "The Pearl of the Lake," and is as follows:
"Oh, Wolverine State, 'am amazed at thy course,
Did Washington Island e'er sue for divorce?
Ne'er courting the mermaid would straightway take
This Washington Island, the Pearl of the Lake.
This bone of contention to which I allude
Some cities and mines of the state might include;
The Badger, however, will never forsake
Her Washington Island, the Pearl of the Lake.
And now they have gone to establish a line,
Directing our fisher in setting his twine.
And woe to the fisher who makes a mistake
Near Washington Island, the Pearl of the Lake.
These beautiful shores again and again,
Our father preferred for your favorite main.
Your favorite mainland, the place could not take
Of Washington Island, the Pearl of the Lake."
Jens and Ralph built a number of cabins around Little Lake to rent to summer residents. These have now been sold to visitors, who return here year after year.
George Nelson, one of the Island's last remaining pioneers, passed away during 1961 at the age of 91. At age 18 he left Norway and came to Wisconsin. For six years he worked as cook or mate on the lake schooners. On Washington Island he sailed with Captain Pedersen (Chester and Hazel's father).
Before his marriage to Martha Anderson, he made his home with the Jacob Richter family, and had the companionship of Carl G. Richter.
He bought the farm where his daughter, Virginia Bjarnarson now lives and farmed for some years, fishing thru the ice in the winter months.
George eventually set up a commercial fishing business in Jackson Harbor, and his sons, Russell and Spencer, fished with him.
The Washington Island baseball team will miss him and his loyal support. One dollar from him went to each player who hit a home run, and he seldom missed a game.
George never learned to drive the new fangled cars, and a Model T Ford even proved too much, since it wouldn't stop when he hollered, "Whoa!"
CLASSIC PIONEER PHOTO — The subject is Bo Anderson and Aurora Shellswick's mother. The cabin is now in ruins. Clarence Koyen took the picture.
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Islanders have felt the need of a local newspaper at different times, and back about 1930 Jacob and Eugene Gunnlaugsson (cousins) set up a print shop, where Mrs. Tillie Ellefson lives now. They printed a small sized newspaper called, "Island Reporter," which was a credit to their integrity but a liability to their pocketbooks. After a time Jacob sold out to Eugene, and he continued alone for a few years, until July 1936, when he printed a larger issue advertising the Washington Island Centennial (which was 100 years since some Danish people had settled on what is known as the John Larson place). Eugene finally left the Island and went to work in a printing plant in Chicago.
Since that time different people have put out an Island newspaper (mimeographed) called the "Islander." The Girl Scouts and their leader, Mrs. Hans Baasch (Synnove) were the editors of the "Islander" before the days of electricity 1941-1944. When they tired of the job, Martha Stelter and Margaret Smith assumed the task. They continued publishing the paper through 1947, but since both of them were involved in their own businesses, it became too much work and ceased. They had a staff of typists and reporters, but the burden was too heavy. This staff did a good job of collecting all the news, as existing copies of the paper will verify. Since that time Island news has been published only in the Advocate and the Bethel Tidings, put out by the church and containing community news in brief as well as Bethel church news. This is a non-profit paper, and donations are made by interested people to defray the expense of paper, postage, and other supplies. Rev. C. H. Lundberg and his family started this publication, and it is now kept up by women in the church.
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POTATO SHIPPERS waiting to be weighed in at Koyen's store, after which the wagon-loads were driven down the hill to the waiting schooner.
Potatoes, now the main crop on Washington island, held the same place to a much lesser degree 50 years ago. In those days there was no "potato king." Every farmer raised potatoes, hauled them by wagonloads to Washington Harbor dock, where they were loaded on schooners and taken to Chicago to be sold. Wagons were weighed at Koyen's store and would be lined up past Bethel church waiting in line to go down to the dock.
There were many years in between when the lowly potato was simply raised for home consumption until Edward H. Anderson, a former Islander, saw the possibility of raising, first, certified seed potatoes, then great quantities for market. He had long been one of the largest carlot potato merchants in the country.
The unique feature about Ed Anderson's operation, is the way he gets his potatoes to market. He bought twofold automobile ferries from the State of Michigan, converted each into a massive storage bin by building bulkheads on both ends and adding insulation. One held 100,000 bushels, the other 70,000 — then towed them across Lake Michigan to Benton Harbor, Mich. Enroute the potatoes were sorted, graded and packaged, so they were ready for customers' trucks waiting at dockside.
Steam threshing rig at Washington Island.
Courtesy of the Door County Library Newspaper Archive
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